Some of the strongest evidence of climate change is the movement of trees and plants farther and farther north of the areas they have historically occupied. Fungi, it would appear, are similarly affected. The Périgord truffle named after the area in Southern France where it has flourished, is a case in point.
These little delicacies, fetch from $2 to $3 per gram to the grower and retail for up to $180 an ounce (28.3495 grams)— about enough to garnish two entrées.
Also known as the black or black Périgord, this truffle grows around the roots of oaks, hazelnut, cherry and other deciduous trees. Second most valuable of all truffles, it is harvested in late autumn and winter.
Currently, most of the world’s Périgord truffles come from the southernmost regions of France and from Spain, Italy and Croatia. They’re relatively rare because they are difficult to manage and quite picky about their environment. They need/must have mild, frost-free winters, warm, but never hot, summers, quite a bit of rain during the summer which is when they grow, but dry winters, please.
The slightest temperature variance, even as little as one half degree C in average temperatures per decade could render truffle environments too hot. The extreme droughts in summer that we’re seeing now in that area could do even more damage.
The tree-hosts might be struggling for survival too and climate change could bring new pest influxes.
All of this adds up to not good news for Périgord truffles and those who would grow (and/or eat them). Some are predicting the end of the fungi. But, meanwhile, climate change is making the production of the prized truffle possible in areas such as the United Kingdom, Tasmania, Tennessee, Oregon and British Columbia.
Yes. Even in Canada — Below the Nut Farm on Vancouver Island has been producing Périgords consistently since 2013. They are now selling direct to chefs across the country. The price is $2 to $3 a gram, just like the French version.
Check out Canada’s Périgord truffle farm at Below the Nut Farm.
— Shirley Byers