Pruning proponents’ reason that pruning helps your tomato plants focus energy on producing fruit rather than foliage. With less foliage air circulation is also improved and this reduces the risk of disease, while also letting sunlight reach the lower leaves and fruit.
But to be clear pruning is a choice – you don’t have to prune tomatoes for them to yield but the plant may get a bit out of control and be more voluminous. If you do choose to prune to conserve space for example, here is how to go about it.
When to prune…
Start pruning when the plant is a foot to a foot and a half tall. Another sign to start is appearance of first set of flowers.
What to prune…
Most disease in tomatoes is soil born. Prune any leaves at the bottom of the plant that touch the soil. Also prune any leaves that are yellowed or look diseased.
Pruning suckers are suggested to control volume of foliate and focus on fruiting. Suckers are the small shoots that grow in the leaf axils, the “V” shaped space between the main stem and the leaf stem. They can grow into full branches but often divert energy from fruiting.
Suckers below the first set of flowers – are especially good prospects for pruning. Start from the bottom and work your way up.
How to prune…
For small suckers pinch them off with your fingers.
For larger suckers, use clean and sharp pruning shears. Cut suckers close to the main stem to avoid damaging it.
Proceed with caution as removing too many leaves can stress your plant and reduce photosynthesis. Striking a balance of keeping enough foliage to produce and protect the fruits from sunscald is recommended.
Maintenance…
Continue pruning tomatoes once per week throughout the season removing any new suckers and any dead, diseased or damaged branches to keep the plants clean and healthy.
Editor’s tip: Using dirty tools can spread diseases and dull tools can damage plants. Always clean and maintain your pruning shears before and after use.
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